Turning South

Wednesday, October 1st, 1823 – I went across the river again four miles down from the Falls, where there is great diversity of soil. Opposite what is called the Whirlpool grew three species of Quercus on barren rocks. On my returning to the inn I found that Mr Briscoe was to leave in the afternoon. The weather being bad, and the seeming approach of winter, made me anxious to get to New York as soon as possible. We accordingly set out and passed Stamford, where Mr Briscoe informed me Captain Sabine lived. The face of the country is variable, with some beautiful rising eminences. At 4 o’clock we reached Queenston, where I parted from Mr Briscoe. I am under great obligations to this gentleman. Crossed the river at Queenston for Lewiston on my way to Lockport. I got a box, packed my plants and then went to bed. 

Douglas has unequivocally turned south now, en route for New York. The journey will not be uneventful.

Niagara

Tuesday, September 30th, 1823 – This morning before daylight I was up and at the Falls. I am, like most who have seen them, sensitively impressed with their grandeur. Out of the cliffs of the rock grow Red Cedar, Juglans and Quercus. I crossed below the Falls to the American side and then to the island called Goat Island. It is partly covered with woods of large dimensions; the soil is variable, part rich and part sand and gravel. 

So Douglas is finally at Niagara Falls, and is suitably impressed. He loses no time in botanising and describes how he visited Goat Island. I've always wondered how he actually did that, having been there myself and seen just how fast and powerful the current is in the Niagara River. I'd always thought that getting onto Goat Island would be easy enough, basically a matter of putting into the water sufficiently far upstream and colliding with Goat Island on the way downstream (although with only one chance to get it right). But getting off the island would be another story, in a fast current with rocks and the Falls themselves only just downstream. 

I never resolved how he did that, until now. Turns out there was a bridge! Built in 1817. Rebuilt in 1818. Doh!! 

To Niagara

Buffalo, Monday, September 29th, 1823 – In the morning I wrote to Jos. Sabine [Secretary of the Horticultural Society, and Douglas’s boss]. At 10 o’clock I set out in company with Mr Briscoe for Niagara. We went on the American side for two miles and crossed [the Niagara River] to the Canadian side. The weather was very cold and there was a snow shower which lasted for three-quarters of an hour.

We had a good deal of difficulty gaining the Canadian side; the wind blew from the west. Along the side of the River Niagara the soil in general is rich, of black and brown loam [Douglas rarely desists from assessing the fertility of a place in terms of its soil; his early training as a gardener shows through!]. We travelled slowly, stopping frequently...... [and] at 5 o’clock in the afternoon we reached the Falls.